Chemistry questions = desk job and I take their advise. They tell me the Clear 2K Urethane cannot be wet sanded and buffed but I do it successfully all the time so I take their advise with a grain of salt. I call and talk to them occasionally but realize I am asking them for formula construction and compatibility with other additives and substrates. ![]() Thanks!Good on you for calling and speaking with Tech Support. I have made some steel (treated with sulfuric acid to remove mill scale) saw horse brackets that I use outside on a decorative saw horse, and although they are coated in 6 coats of automotive clear coat, rust has formed on the steel only after one season.Īny help from anyone with experience with this problem would be appreciated. My question is regarding the sculptnouveau products- do they protect bare steel from rust? Have you run across any other clear product that can act as a primer for bare steel? I asked him, in that case, what was the purpose of making a clear rust preventative coating- he mumbled something about some people not caring about the clear turning yellow- pretty lame. ![]() said that it is impossible to manufacture a clear coat that restricts UV passing through- any manufacturer who claims otherwise is "full of crap"- his exact words. The 2K Urethane top coat passes UV rays through it causing the rust preventative coating to turn amber. The 2K urethane does not protect it from yellowing. The problem with this product is that it turns amber with exposure to UV rays. They do manufacture a clear primer coat for bare steel- POR-15 clear rust proof coating ( ). He said that it does a pretty good job, but that it will allow rust formation after a couple of years. ![]() who told me that the 2K urethane alone will not protect bare steel from rusting nor will it protect rusted steel from continuing to rust. Last edited by old jupiter 08-06-2016 at 12:40 PM. I think most of our first cars featured lots of primer!! At the very least, most of us would hand-wire-brush all the rust and hit it with primer. We wanted fine-looking, fast cars (when we got our licenses back from having driven like idiot-boys in our ugly, slow cars). Whoever dreamed up the "Old Skool" deal was never there. Oh, and meanwhile, the dirt track jalopy racers weren't going to spend much money on body and paint and then go out and bang fenders with their pals at SeaTac Speedway, so if you see the old black-and-white photos of them "from back in the day," that's why they don't look like Big Daddy Roth's show cars either. Actual "Old Skool" when I was entering high school meant the one guy who had turned sixteen and had got a car picking up a few other guys for a ride, and each of the others chipping in enough money to help the car owner get some gas (which was only about 20 cents a gallon). We did NOT want cruddy-looking cars, and planned to get them cherried-out at some point, but meanwhile we had to drive them as they were, because they were all we had. Whitney catalog and lusting after three-quarter-grind cams and chrome-plated differential covers. ![]() while we were poring over the latest J.C. Our cars were rusty and shabby NOT, repeat NOT, as any kind of style or attitude, but because we were high school boys who had bought our cars for twenty or twenty-five bucks, were LEARNING auto mechanics and auto-body as we got them to run and even stop, and our entry-level part-time jobs barely covered gas-money and maybe blue-dot taillights. I grew up in the Fifties and early Sixties. A turquoise, mebbe).Īre you really going to "slam" a working shop-truck, Chantz?Īs for the HAMB, my two cents is that most of the guys who are into the "Old Skool" rat rods are too young to know anything about it. Well, different strokes for different folks, but I'm with Baron, those little old pickups can look so purty when they're all shiny (me, I'd go with some solid factory color that's easy to spot-repair as needed.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |